Friday, September 27, 2013

Vienna and Munich with Dad and Kristen!

My Dad and Kristen did a bike tour from Prague to Vienna and we decided to meet up when they were done being amazing.

Getting to Vienna was a pain. I had to leave at 6:00am and I nearly missed my train. Something about waking up at 5:30am made me rather slow in the getting-ready process. By the time my brain arrived on set I was running late. So I had to run to catch up, quite literally, with my suitcase in hand, running passed all the street cleaners and late-night-revelers who were returning home. 

I made it on the train, but lost my neck pillow along the way. Ah, my lovely neck pillow with only 1 use under its belt, forever gone away down some dirty French street. Au revoir, ma cherie. 

 Upside of all the dilemma was a Justin Bieber look-alike (and I mean exactly alike) was on the plane and he kept switching his hat every 15 minutes. It was good in-flight entertainment. I think he was new to planes because his dad dropped him off and he kept looking out the airplane window, which was difficult for him, because of his hat. He wouldn't take it off though, just kept readjusting it, and trying another one out. Pretty sure the people behind me disapproved of my stalker methods.

 At my layover in Brussels (which makes SO much sense when you're going from Marseille to Vienna *heavy on the sarcasm*) there were these bikes you could use to charge your electronics. Here's what they looked like, and the ring of lights telling you how much power you were producing. I could produce a TON, but not while taking a picture and holding in my converter at the same. I sat next to some Spaniard who was yapping away in incomprehensible Spanish while peddling his heart out, all in his nice suit.

Kristin got us the hook-ups for the hotel. My first time receiving five-star They gave me cake, cookies, candy, fruit, and fresh flowers. It was quite shnazzy. Almost too shnazzy. There were all sorts of extra towels and cloths that I didn't know how to use. Which one for my face? The smaller one, because my face is smaller than the rest of me? Which one for my hands? The  monogrammed one? Because my hands are important?

They were so prompt on their service that the cleaning lady nearly walked in on me naked, about to take a bath. She rang the doorbell (because my room had a doorbell, since only commoners have rooms without them) and called out. I tried to shout back, but the door was too thick and she couldn't hear me. I grabbed the nearest towel and rushed out into the hall. The towel happened to be a wash cloth (which I decided it was, after much reflection) and it was the smallest sort. Therefore it covered none of my necessities completely. Lucky for me I had spotted the robes in the closet beside the door. I just managed to wrap it around myself as the door opened. She was horrified. I was never so happy to have a robe on in my life. The rest of my bath passed in peace.

 Vienna is extremely beautiful and clean. It was heaven to be away from the poop-laden streets. The architecture too was unique, with both the medieval and the modern. Lots of fun to see.

It's also a city of music. Tons and tons of music. Every night there were multiple concerts. We went to 2, one at the Musikverein and another someplace else. The musicians dressed in period clothing, and they played so well. It was an absolute delight. One flutist played a solo that was so amazing that I went out the next day and bout the music. He was hilarious, just so fancy and proper, like he knew what a treat it was for us to hear him play. The Viennese do music well.

 In the main church, which is named after some important Saint, I'm sure. Quite ornate stone work here, and I especially liked their facial expressions. I try to be serious and contemplative when in a cathedral, but mostly I create dialogue for all the statues, and I find it all highly amusing. I won't tell you my dialogue for these guys because I want you to be serious and contemplative. It is a cathedral, after all.

 More cool statue/monument stuff. There was usually a fat homeless guy at the bottom of this playing his guitar and singing quite loudly with a terrible voice. Seriously so loud, and full of nonsense. Also interesting was that in all of Vienna the statues and artworks like this were covered in tightly meshed chicken wire, to keep the pigeons from roosting on them. I thought it quite smart.

 We went to go see the Spanish Horse-Riding school strut their stuff, and this is my wonderful father trying on their hats. The riders keep the same uniform that they had back in the day. I forgot that I am highly allergic to horses, so while we were waiting for the show to start I started my heavy sniffing, continuous sneezing routine. Dad got out his clorox wipes and wiped down my seat, his seat, Kristen's seat, the window behind me, and all other surfaces I might possibly touch. I've had some pretty bad experiences with horse dander (the full trauma of which I cannot relate, because it includes too much sniffing and sneezing and congestion). Dad instructed me, and I quickly agreed, that I'd have to go Muslim for the duration of the show. I wrapped my scarf around my nose and mouth and took it off only to sneeze. It was rather effective and I was able to see the whole show, but I was incredibly glad to get out and blow my nose. The horses looked very nice, and if I knew anything about horses and training them, I'm sure I would be very impressed. I mean, I was impressed, but in a vague, generally pleased kind of way.

This is me sneaking a photo in front of a couple tiny (tiny!) Asians. Just look at them! They're so tiny! I hope they don't mind I took advantage of their stature and their proximity to me.

 Dad and I in our twinner pants. Later we pulled out our matching jackets. One of us has great style and the other one is copying it, but I can't tell which is which. I have great style, but then, so does he.

 This museum had it going on. Cool stuff, yo. It is quite something when the building looks as magnificent as the works of art it holds. It's like beauty squared. Exponential art. Sometimes it feels about ready to implode with the amount of creativity it holds.

 Inlaid table, ingredients: wood, lapis lazuli, amazingness. It was made to write master-pieces and opiuses and sign peace documents between countries. Nothing else would be sufficient for its beauty.

 The outside of the next-door museum. So freakin' ornate and cultured it's almost hard to look at. Especially because we were in a neighborhood of buildings like this. Everywhere you turned it was so intense. Beauty overload. It was the royalty neighborhood. The kids moved out and built a castle next door.

Doing some shopping. Here's a designer ski-suit and itty-bitty boots for itty-bitty skies. I'm pretty sure that outfit could make you a brilliant skier, even if you don't know what a ski looks like.

 Don't forget the traditional clothing, for the entire family! These were everywhere, especially in Munich. It was the season.

 A jewler. The store was closed but we spied on her through the window and saw her making some stuff. Here she's got her blow torch, melding something, like a bracelet, a necklace, or one ring to rule them all.

 Worn down door. I've begun collecting pictures of doors.

 Some modern piece of art in the Jewish neighborhood, commemorating the dead Jews of WWII. It's supposed to be a library and all bookish stuff, because they dig that stuff.

Dad and Kristen eating schnitzel at Fuglmueller's, because it's awesome. Good schnitzel. I can spell that so I'm just going to keep saying it. Schnitzel. Schnitzel. Kristen and Dad are matching too. The home -made grape juice was amazing. Schnitzel.

Lot's of cool, antique jewelry in Austria. (*note to future husband, wherever you are). Some window display of thousands of dollars worth of bling. Lots of stuff from the 20's. Coral, garnets. A treasure trove that I was able to look at.

 Poseidon statue with the Creature of the Black Lagoon making a guest appearance on the right. He's harder to see from this angle, but he's there.

 Me, mocking the Austrian kings and their class 3 malocclusion (AKA a napoleonic-ego sized underbite). And please, let's give his wig a round of applause. A lot of horses (or humans) went bald for that.

 At night, because it's cool. 

 For their turn down service the hotel tucked my bunny in and gave him a pillow-mint.

 My dad hung his jacket on the back of a chair, while we were at a Mozart concert. Apparently the d-bag behind us stuck his gum on the chair only moments before and my dad didn't see, so when he tried to remove his jacket later that night, this is what happened. Hanging on by a piece of gum.

 Leeches at the local pharmacy. I don't know what health situation would call for leeches but apparently it happens frequently enough in Vienna that they stock up.

And onto Munich! We knew right away we were headed in the right direction because a guy in our train car was already wearing his lederhosen in preperation. 

 Oktoberfest! Lots of haunted rides at the festival. This one has an Amazonian woman beating a dragon into submission (subtext? I think not!). Kristen gave us a play-by-play for all the big rides, on their strengths and weaknesses, their price, and etc.

 Because I'm not too old for this humor (Fahrt zur holle!).

 A lot of gents didn't want to wear the full wool stockings with their lederhosen, so instead they opted for these little calf-warmers of sorts. They looked rather odd, I have to admit, especially when they got really thin. They were almost like a stripe of wool used simply to emphasize the grandness of their calves.

 Beer hall, not for the timid. One of several, full to the brim with large flagons of beer, drunk people, and others on their way. Dirndl dresses (aka booby dresses) and lederhosen galore, worn mostly by the tourists.

 Me dressing up, by request of Kristen and Dad. They say I have a good figure and should show it off. So I did (heck yes!). Then when guys started eying me Dad realized that he may have been too forward in his thinking. He watched the eyers aggressively then put his arm around me and pulled me close. When the eying continued he had me walk on the other side of him. I didn't notice any of this. My head was full of "Munich!" and "Oktoberfest!" and "Food!" and "Candy!". Kristen saw it all and chuckled.

 Art of Munich. Pretty fun stuff.

If I had a billiard room, this is what I'd hand on the wall. 

This might have been my favorite piece. 

 Me taking an artsy photo while in the art museum. 

 School of medicine. Taken by request of Dad.

 Cool museum, complete with garden and cafe.

 Meat window, one of many.

 Gugenheim clock tower, being awesome, no matter how I spell it (on the left).The clock chimes and the figurines move, just like a giant cuckoo clock. Over 40 bells, playing a tune, every hour of the day.

The river in the English Gardens creates a wave that some bored someone discovered could be surfed. People were lined up on either side of the river to take turns surfing it. It was pretty fun to watch, a lot of talented people having a good Wednesday afternoon.

 English Garden, looking pretty, with towers of some famous structure in the background. 

You have now reached the end of this post. I hope you were slightly entertained. 

Monday, September 2, 2013

Toulouse!

My friend, Visylia, and I took a trip north and west to Toulouse. It was only a couple hours by train and there was someone I learned about in college with that name (Toulouse-Lautrec). So we went. 

First thing we did there was eat lunch.
It was epic.

The first course (l'entree) was a board of various, thin sliced meat products. A couple different, um, sausages? Like pepperoni in different flavors. All quite delicious and served with pickles and butter (I have no idea why. The water plopped down a jar of pickles and I was like, what am I supposed to do with this? So I ate a couple. I think that was right).  

The main course (le plat) was absolutely heavenly. Chicken (poulet) with a balsamic sauce that was quite sweet. Then a salad and some pumpkin puree. The puree was *ohmygoodness* so good. Creamy and buttery with delicate seasoning that enhanced its naturally nutty flavor.

Dessert was a raspberry tart. The crust was dense and crumbly pastry. The cream, delicious, and the raspberries (framboise) perfectly ripe.

Ahhhh....

Then we decided to visit the rest of Toulouse. 
Toulouse is known for its red brick. It is unique in all of France (all the French insist that it is indeed very different and original). It is called La Ville en Rose. 


After looking around a couple streets we stopped in a sweet shop.


Absolutely magnificent. Biscuits and marshmallows and jellies and nougat and violets. Ah, heaven.

Here is the Capital, the biggest red brick building and the center of the city. It was a nice warm weekend and a lot of people were getting married. We saw 4 brides I think while we were there, all getting married in the capital. 


Inside was an absolute stunning collection of murals. The artwork was fantastic and of the topmost quality. I had no idea it existed but we got to see it (and for free!)



Here is some ceiling. 

This is supposed to be Comedy and Tragedy, but I think it looks like John Lennon and a muppet. 

 
Me, there.

Sometimes French names don't translate.

Glorious center of the main hall.


Once we got out I ate one of the cookies from the sweet shop. Toulouse is also known for its violets, so everything is violet flavored. I got a violet flavored biscuit, and I will say violet is a decent but not preferable flavor in a baked good. 


On Saturday we went to the churches (because churches are closed to the public on Sundays)


Also a very decent mural job. This church (Basilique St. Sernin) was on the way to St. John's Basilica in Spain. So pilgrims would come and stay at the monasteries and churches in town and for payment they would leave a seashell--the symbol of St. John. 


The church is quite old (foundation laid in 1060 or something crazy) and the artwork is dazzling. So much detail!

Here is a miniature of the Basilica (a church for ants). It was just hanging from the ceiling. (The real church was 3x this size)

Afterwards we went to a tea shop that was darling.


They had a 7 page tea menu, but I just went with the hot chocolate. It was thick and cocoa-y and I got to use this darling tea cup.


Next we went to the Jacobins Convent. It is known for its "palm tree" ceiling. 

See? We didn't stay too long because there was a wedding going on. It was a little weird. They left the door open and everything and you walk in and there in the middle some lady is chanting Latin into a microphone and the wedding couple is up on a dais. It was like, whoa, are we allowed to be here? *look around nervously. Nobody stops us* Ok I guess we can, uh... look around. So we left pretty quick. Other tourists stayed, wandering around, with their camera around their neck and scooting around the wedding guests. Odd.

In honor of all the weddings I took a picture of this wedding dress store. Very beautiful, very expensive. 

The view from Pont Neuf. Voila, Toulouse. 

And of course we had to have dinner.


Walnut salad, veal, and a cantaloupe soup for dessert. We also had the region special, the cassoulet. Vis and I were a bit nervous to try it because we had some at Carcassonne and it was not good, just oily and heavy with waaaaay too many white beans. 

We almost went with something else and the waitress was like I don't think you want that. It is very good, but it is an acquired taste, and if you're not used to it... Turns out it was squid testicles or something. We told her why we were hesitant to eat the cassoulet but she assured us their cassoulet was very good, they took pride in it. Plus our teacher had told us we had to try, so we did it. We ordered the cassoulet.

During the meal the waitress stopped by, then the other waiter, and then the chef, all to see of we liked the food! It added pressure to the meal, definitely. Luckily their cassoulet was decidedly better than Carcassonne's. The entire staff rejoiced in the good news. The waiter (about 42 y. o.) did a victory dance and the waitress (about 55 y. o.) cheered. The chef (I think the husband of the waitress) came over and gave us a 101 on the cultural importance of the cassoulet. He also explained that it takes about 3 days to make because you season the duck for a day, smoke the sausage, and cook it in 4 hour increments. At least, that's what I got from it. 

And they all had very bad teeth. Yellow or missing. But the cassoulet was good.

Lunch the next day was brunch. Sunday was brunch day. Every restaurant only offered brunch. So we got brunch


It was the most random assortment of food. Quiche, salad, muffin, carrots, tomatoes, cous cous, hummus, smoked salmon, ham, and applesauce. All on the same plate. It was like someone was trying to clean out the fridge before Monday.

A portion of the tea selection.


This was the Bomberg Foundation. Lots and Lots of cool art.

Imposing figures like this trying to call people to repentance. 

And Mr. Darcy.

Baby Herculese killing snakes. That kid has the sweetest head of hair. 

 View from inside.

Epic painting of the conquerer of Jerusalem. 

Cupid, being creepy and shooting people to make them like each other.

 After a while I started mocking the artwork.



 This one's out of order, but it's a bunch of chubby cherubs fighting over apples.



 Wasn't sure if the one on the right is a dude wearing a dress or a lady with a beard.

Fig. 108: Greek youth displaying the preferred coiffure of his century. Such a sultry look made the gladiators kill each other in envy. The winner got a hair cut.

 Outside of the next museum was a flee market. We went and it was like DI on the streets. People's used stuff, but not even in good condition. Lots and lots of electronic cords, mostly for things from the 90's (walkmans--walkmen? Robo puppy, cassette recorders, and etc.) 
It was the Arab quarter, I believe, and a few random French natives and one American (me!) who wondered where they took the wrong turn because no one was speaking French anymore.

The smallest museum we went to has 2 rooms and 3 paintings. It was the Occitan Cultural museum.

Occitan in a language spoken in the south west of France and the north east of Spain. It's dying but some people try to keep it alive.

That book in the middle is The Little Prince in Occitan. If the store had been open I totally would have bought that shiz. 

 The next museum was a clock museum and it was crazy to see what people could make in the 1600's. Some truly ingenious and beautiful stuff. Coolest was this autamaton. When wound up the bird sings a rather complex song and the fancy person (man? woman? sultan? sultress?) looks at it and nods then looks to the parasol holder and nods. The parasol holder nods back (I think he's trying to convince the fancy person that that giant tassel is actually a parasol). It's crazy because it's like 500 years old, and still works.

Final stop: The boulangerie! It was full of rising bread, croissants, and these mini loaves of different flavors. Adorable.